Island Hopping in the Indian

Rife with marine ecology and opportunities for watery adventures, Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands are spectacular destinations.

CHRISTMAS ISLAND MARINE LIFE

Christmas Island’s coastal zone is a limited marine environment, with little soft bottom, shallow waters or sheltered habitats — but the narrow fringing reef supports bountiful marine life.

Surveys have identified more than 650 fish species, of which 28 occur in extraordinary abundance. The island is a meeting place for Indian and Pacific Ocean species, some of which interbreed. This in turn has given the island international significance for having more hybrid species than anywhere else in the world.

The island is also unique for having three species of true land crab. These inhabit the whole island but are dependent on the ocean for the development of their larvae and spawn along the coastline in vast numbers during November.

Although there are more than 88 species of corals, species diversity is considered low compared to Indonesian reefs. It is still abundant, however, especially on the north and west coasts, reaching up to 75 per cent at Flying Fish Cove. Soft corals, sponges, feather stars, and sea fans grow on limestone walls where the reef plunges into deep ocean water.

Christmas Island’s waters provide habitat for threatened green turtles and critically endangered hawksbills. These migratory animals may travel thousands of kilometres across the Indian Ocean, but the females always return to the same nesting grounds on Dolly Beach and Greta Beach each year.

The ocean around the island is frequented by some of the ocean’s largest fish — manta rays with 7m ‘wings’ and 12m whale sharks, both of which congregate during the wet season to feed on plankton blooms and masses of red crab spawn. Marine mammals include several whale species and long-snouted spinner dolphins, so named for their spectacular rotating leaps that take them metres into the air.

Christmas Island is an internationally renowned tropical seabird rookery. Around 80,000 seabirds nest here annually, including 23 resident species and more than 100 migratory ones. Among the most numerous is the brown booby, whose 7000 breeding pairs comprise one of the world’s largest populations of these birds. The island is also the world’s only nesting ground for three endemic species — the golden form of the white-tailed tropic bird, the endangered Abbott’s booby, and the critically endangered Christmas Island frigatebird.

Sea whips at Christmas Island’s Perpendicular Wall

CRUSING CHRISTMAS ISLAND

Christmas Island is a small land mass surrounded by deep water in the open ocean. Inside 500m of the coastline the water depth can be greater than 1000m, plunging to over 5000m within a couple of kilometres offshore. The island is exposed to almost constant winds that vary in direction according to the seasonal monsoons. These winds generate sizeable swells in the coastal waters and, during stormy weather, beaches are subject to large waves and strong undertows.

The north and west coasts are sheltered from the south-east trade winds and are relatively calm for most of the year. The main port and recreational areas at Flying Fish Cove are accessed by a boat ramp, and major current action at the bay is mostly confined to the points. The west coast is less accessible due to the distance from the boat ramp and is often rougher than the north coast. During the north-west monsoon both coasts are assailed by extreme swells that can damage to the reef and cliffs.

The south and east coasts are exposed and generally inaccessible in the prevailing south-east trade winds. Heavy swells pound the coasts for most of the year generating impressive geysers from blowholes below the cliffs. Sheltered from the NW monsoon, the east coast can be accessed from a boat ramp at Ethel Beach.

THE PORT OF CHRISTMAS ISLAND

A container port and jetty are located at Flying Fish Cove, and it is recommended that visiting yachts time their arrival for daylight hours to maximise safety. On or before arrival, visiting yachts should contact Customs and Immigration, then tie up to an available mooring and display the yellow quarantine flag. A courtesy call to the Harbour Master is also appreciated.

Flying Fish Cove has moorings in 30m of water, and some are generally available for a small fee throughout the year. To avoid damaging coral, anchors must not be dropped in the cove, except for safety reasons and with the express permission of the Harbour Master. The large buoys in the main mooring area are for commercial shipping operations and may not be used.

Yacht dinghies may tie up to the landward side of the landings and ramp at the head of the jetty, but may not be secured to the aluminium stairs and landing on the eastern side of the jetty or beneath the gantry crane extensions. It is possible to land a tender on the beach.

Flying Fish Cove is a multi-use recreational area for aquatic activities, and yachts and dinghies transiting the cove must keep a lookout for people in the water and not exceed the 8-knot speed limit. The Marine Building fronting the jetty contains the office of the Harbour Master and has public showers and toilets that are open 24 hours per day.

FISHING ON CHRISTMAS ISLAND

Christmas Island offers excellent opportunities for recreational fishing. The main season runs from May to November to coincide with good weather during the south-east monsoon, although many locals enjoy the sport year round. Large swells and heavy seas during the northwest monsoon can limit boating access from Flying Fish Cove to popular fishing grounds off the north and west coasts.

Fishing charters operate in deep waters within a short distance offshore, targeting pelagic sport species such as giant trevally, yellowfin tuna, sailfish, and wahoo. Land-based fishing is possible most of the year from the jetty at Flying Fish Cove or many clifftop locations around the island.

A sheltered beach for swimming at Flying Fish Cove

DIVING AND SNORKELLING OFF CHRISTMAS

The water surrounding Christmas Island is unusually clear, with visibility often reaching up to 50 metres, and sea surface temperatures are consistently 25–30 degrees — perfect conditions for enjoying some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving in the eastern Indian Ocean.

Many beaches have a reef close to shore, showcasing pristine corals and abundant fish, turtles, and dolphins. Popular locations include Ethel Beach, West White Beach, and the aforementioned Flying Fish Cove.

As well as fringing reefs, the island boasts spectacular drop-off walls close inshore, making them easily accessible to divers with basic skills. Plunging kilometres into an inky abyss, the walls support huge gorgonians (sea fans), black corals, feather stars, and sea lilies that thrive in the deep ocean currents. Diving enthusiasts are spoiled for choice with more than 60 dive sites to experience.

COCOS ISLANDS MARINE LIFE

The marine environment of the Cocos (also known as Keeling) Islands supports an incredibly rich and diverse array of marine life with over 500 species of fish, 100 hard corals, 600 molluscs, 200 crustaceans, and nearly 100 species of echinoderms. Because of the territory’s location, the fish species are more closely related to Indian Ocean communities than the Indo-West Pacific. About two thirds of fish species are shared with Christmas Island.

There is also an unusual lack of endemism in the marine biota, with only two endemic coral species and the extremely rare Cocos pygmy angelfish, among the atolls’ shallow reef communities. This is thought to derive from the oscillation in the sea levels and the relatively recent formation of the reefs, limiting the time for colonisation by plants and animals among the islands. Periodic catastrophic events including tropical cyclones have also impacted viability.

Four species of whales have been regularly sighted in the waters surrounding the outer reefs, along with manta rays, reef sharks, and common dolphins. Up to 100 green turtles and small numbers of hawksbills nest in the islands each year, mainly on the north atoll.

Wading the shallows is a great way to experience the inshore environment

Being the only land mass within a 900km radius, the Cocos Islands are a crucial landing option for birds blown off course and an important staging point for migratory birds on the East Asian-Australian flyways. Hence, the islands have evolved as one of the major seabird breeding grounds in the Indian Ocean. As many as 60 species have been recorded on the atolls, including the world’s largest population of the endemic red-footed booby and the second largest lesser frigate bird nesting population in Australia.

CRUISING THE COCOS ISLANDS

These low-lying mid-ocean islands have few sheltered areas outside of the lagoon. Relatively strong south-east trade winds prevail most of the year, while the noth-west monsoon brings somewhat calmer weather (doldrums) from January–April. Whatever the direction, strong winds generate heavy swells and continuous wave action. Tides have a significant impact on most water activities.

North Keeling is surrounded by broken, irregular reefs, except at the north-west corner which is predominantly an open, sandy beach. The reef is narrower on the north and west coasts and broader in the south and east. The internal lagoon has one entrance to the ocean on the south-eastern corner of the island. Its mouth is shrouded by a reef and closes intermittently from silting.

The reef around the southern atoll varies from 50–400m from the shore and is continuous apart from major entrances around Horsburgh Island at the north end of the lagoon and surge channels near South and West Islands. The atoll’s lagoon is mostly shallow with a 30m depression (‘Blue Holes’) at its centre.

For yachts making the passage from Australia, the Cocos Islands are an excellent waypoint while crossing the Indian Ocean to South-east Asia, the Indian subcontinent, and Africa — or even as a destination in its own right. In the absence of a major seaport, Direction Island is the official point of entry in the northeast of the southern atoll lagoon. Although there are no off-lying dangers, depths reduce quickly at the lagoon entrance to less than 10m, and a night approach is not recommended.

All yachts arriving at the Cocos Islands must go through quarantine, customs, and immigration formalities. Upon arrival all yachts must contact Customs and proceed to the southern lee of Direction Island, drop anchor, and hoist a yellow quarantine flag or tie up to the yellow buoy until cleared in. Passports and visas are not required when travelling to the islands from the Australian mainland. However, photographic identification, such as an Australian Driver’s License or a valid passport or Proof of Age card must be produced for each passenger (including children). Normal Australian customs and immigration procedures apply when entering the islands from outside of Australia. A passport is necessary and a visa may be required. Immigration formalities are also applied on departure.

The ferry is a convenient way to transit the southern atoll lagoon of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Although there is not much shelter at the anchorage from south-east winds, there is little swell in the lagoon and holding is good in a sandy bottom. This postcard-perfect tropical island offers shady shelters, wood-fired BBQs, eco-toilets and Cossies Beach, crowned ‘Best Beach in Australia’ in 2017. The island is also home to the world famous ‘Rip’ (safer than it sounds), a safe snorkelling spot featuring spectacular marine life.

There is a lagoon anchorage between Horsburgh and Direction Islands for larger vessels, and another behind Home Island, 1.5nm to the south, with special permission from the local council. Follow the channel markers when transiting between Direction and Home Islands as there are numerous shallow areas and coral outcrops along the route. Anchorages may also be made along West Island where convenient. It is recommended to catch the ferry between the islands, rather than attempt crossing the lagoon in a small tender.

The Cocos Island Marine Centre can do minor repairs to vessels and equipment, and for other services such as laundry, fuel, mail forwarding, pre-ordered parts and equipment contact Cocos Yachting Services.

FISHING THE COCOS ISLANDS

At North Keeling, recreational fishing — by permit only — targets wahoo, barracuda, mahi mahi, yellowfin, and the Indo Pacific sailfish. Favourable weather, usually late November to March, enables fishing from smaller vessels within the southern atoll lagoon for snapper, sweetlip, trevally, and mullet. At the lagoon edge near West, Horsburgh and Direction Islands fishers can catch trout, snapper, and cod. Rock lobsters, mud crabs, and giant clams may also be taken from the lagoon. ¦

Christmas Islands Contacts

DEPARTMENT OF INFRASTRUCTURE, TRANSPORT, CITIES & REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT

111 Alinga Street, Canberra ACT

P: (02) 6274 7111

W: regional.gov.au/territories

Christmas Island

P: (08) 9164 7901

CHRISTMAS ISLAND TOURISM ASSOCIATION

P: (08) 9164 8382

E: marketing@christmas.net.au

W: christmas.net.au

SHIRE OF CHRISTMAS ISLAND